Horse Fly Repellent & Fly Control: The Complete Guide

2 min read

Horse Fly Repellent & Fly Control by the solid bar company

Flies aren't just irritating — they're a genuine welfare issue. Left unmanaged, fly activity around horses leads to head shaking, stamping, weight loss from disrupted grazing, skin irritation, and in sensitive horses, sweet itch flare-ups. The right repellent does most of the work, but it performs even better paired with good barn hygiene. Here's how to get both right.

Choosing the Right Horse Fly Repellent

Most owners default to a spray without questioning it. The problem: most fly sprays are around 90% water and carrier solvent. You're paying for a bottle that's mostly evaporating on contact, they hiss and startle nervous horses, and they need reapplying constantly through the day.

The Solid Bar Company's No Fly bar repellent applied to a horse

The alternative: the Equine No Fly Bar is a concentrated solid repellent — 100% active ingredients (natural butters, oils, infused catmint, lemongrass and neem), with zero dilution and zero waste. It's rubbed or rolled directly onto the coat, so there's no hissing sound and no spray mist, which makes it a genuine option for spray-shy horses. Independently tested by Horse & Hound, it scored 9/10 overall and deters flies, midges, gnats, mosquitoes, noseeums and black fly for up to 7 hours from a single application. It's also FEI competition compliant, so it's safe to use if you compete.

For best results, apply to the neck, mane crest, belly, behind the ears and base of the tail — the areas midges target most — and reapply after 6–7 hours, or after heavy rain or sweating.

Fly Control Around the Yard

Every repellent works harder when there are fewer flies to begin with. A few habits make a real difference alongside direct protection:

        Muck out daily, not weekly. Manure is the single biggest breeding ground for stable flies. A pile left for more than 48 hours can produce a new generation of flies.

        Keep muck heaps well away from stables — at least 30 metres if possible, and cover them if you can.

        Deal with standing water. Water troughs, old tyres, blocked gutters and puddles are where flies and midges breed. Empty and refresh troughs regularly.

        Use fly predators or traps as a first line of defence. Parasitic wasps (fly predators) and sticky traps hung around — not directly above — stabled areas reduce the adult fly population without chemicals.

        Improve airflow. Flies are weaker fliers than they look — a stable with good airflow or a barn fan will have noticeably fewer flies than a still, enclosed one.

Fly Control Checklist for Your Yard

1.   Muck out and remove droppings daily

2.   Site the muck heap away from stabled horses

3.   Empty and clean water troughs weekly

4.   Hang fly traps or introduce fly predators early in the season (before numbers build)

5.   Improve stable ventilation where possible

6.   Apply a direct repellent — Equine No Fly Bar — focusing on the neck, mane crest, belly, behind the ears and base of the tail, where midges target most

7.   Reapply after 6–7 hours, or after heavy rain or sweating

Shop Fly Control for Horses

Equine No Fly Bar — from £12.99. Horse & Hound approved, 9/10 overall. Up to 7 hours of protection per application. 100% natural, DEET-free, FEI compliant.

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